Martel
Known as “The City of Seven Towers” for its distinctive skyline, Martel offers visitors a captivating blend of rich history, stunning architecture, and delectable regional cuisine. This well-preserved medieval town of 1,500 souls and seven towers offers a good chance to stretch your legs and stock up on picnic items. Lacking a riverfront or a hilltop setting, Martel is largely overlooked by tourists. Enjoy the handsome pedestrian area lined with historic buildings.
Historical Background
Martel’s origins date back to the 11th century when it was founded by the Viscounts of Turenne. Unlike many medieval towns that grew around religious institutions or defensive structures, Martel developed primarily due to its strategic location at the crossroads of important trade routes. The town was positioned along the old Gallo-Roman road connecting Paris to southern France, near the salt ports of the region.
For over 500 years, Martel served as the capital of the Quercy part of the Viscounty of Turenne. The town was fortified in the 13th century and subsequently entered a golden age that lasted several centuries. During this prosperous period, wealthy merchants built impressive mansions and the distinctive towers that define Martel’s skyline today.
A notable historical event occurred in Martel in the 12th century when Henry the Young King (known in French as Henri Court-Mantel due to the short clothes he wore), the eldest son of King Henry II of England and Eleanor of Aquitaine, died in the town. Henry had been in conflict with his father and brother Richard the Lionheart, and according to local legends, he fell ill after pillaging the sanctuary at Rocamadour. His death meant that Richard became the heir to the English throne.
The town’s economic prosperity continued through the centuries with trade in salt, wine, and later truffles. When the railway arrived in the 19th century, Martel once again flourished as it could transport its valuable “black diamonds” (truffles) throughout France. This train line, which now operates as a tourist attraction, earned the nickname “Le Truffadou” because of its connection to the truffle trade.
Place des Consuls (Main Square)
At the heart of Martel lies the Place des Consuls (also known as Place de la Halle), the town’s main square. Dominated by a covered market hall adorned with climbing plants and flowers, this cobblestone square is surrounded by impressive medieval buildings. The square hosts a weekly market (Wednesdays and Saturdays) where you can purchase local products including Quercy specialties, seasonal produce, and artisanal crafts. The town is said to be named for Charles Martel, Charlemagne’s grandfather and role model, who stopped the Moors’ advance into norther France in 732.
Saint-Maur Church
Located in the center of Martel, the Saint-Maur Church dates back to the 12th century and represents a beautiful example of Romanesque architecture in the region. The church features a Romanesque entrance, a fortified design, and a 16th-century bell tower that was used as part of the town’s defenses. Inside, you’ll find colorful painted decorations and Gothic architectural elements. The tympanum carvings at the entrance depict Christ’s second coming.
The Seven Towers
Martel’s distinctive skyline is defined by its seven medieval towers, which were built by wealthy merchants as symbols of their prosperity. These towers offer a glimpse into the town’s golden age and serve as convenient landmarks as you navigate the historic center:
- The Bell Tower of Palais de la Raymondie – This impressive square tower was later converted into a bell tower and is attached to one of the town’s most significant buildings.
- Tour Tournemire – One of the largest towers in Martel, it once served as the town’s prison.
- The Bell Tower of Saint-Maur Church – This tall defensive tower was part of the town’s fortifications.
- Cordeliers Tower – The only remaining part of a Franciscan Monastery established in Martel in 1230.
- The Mirandol House Tower – A high, square staircase tower that was the last one built in Martel during the second half of the 15th century.
- and 7. – The remaining towers are attached to various historic mansions throughout the town.
Hidden Gems
Medieval Stalls and Historic Details
As you explore Martel’s narrow streets, keep an eye out for preserved medieval stalls, characteristic doorways, and architectural details that tell the story of the town’s evolution. The old quarter contains several medieval stalls, character houses, stylish doors, and the former convent of Mirepoises with its coffered-ceiling cloister.
Truffles
Martel has been a major center for truffle production for centuries, earning the nickname “the truffle capital.” These highly prized “black diamonds” are harvested from November through February. If you visit during truffle season, don’t miss the opportunity to taste dishes featuring this exquisite ingredient. Martel hosts an annual truffle market in January, where you can learn about and purchase these culinary treasures.
Walnuts and Walnut Oil
The Lot region is famous for its walnut production, and Martel continues this tradition. Local walnuts are used in various culinary preparations, from salads to desserts. Walnut oil, with its rich, nutty flavor, is particularly prized. Visit the walnut mill on the outskirts of town to learn about traditional production methods.
Carennac
This jumble of peaked roofs and half-timbered walls, lassoed between the river and D-20, begs to be photographed. Officially classified as one of “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” (The Most Beautiful Villages of France), this picturesque commune in the Lot department of southwestern France offers visitors a captivating journey through time.
Historical Background
Carennac’s history stretches back to ancient times, with evidence of human occupation dating to the Neolithic period. However, the village as we know it today began to take shape in the 11th century.
The turning point in Carennac’s development came in 1047 when the area was given to the powerful Abbey of Cluny, which established a priory there. This Cluniac priory became the nucleus around which the village grew, and many of the architectural treasures that survive today date from this period.
During the Middle Ages, Carennac flourished as a religious and cultural center. Unfortunately, like many settlements in the region, it suffered damage during the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453). After this tumultuous period, the village was rebuilt and expanded in the 15th century, giving rise to many of the beautiful Renaissance buildings that still stand today.
The 16th century saw further development with the construction of the Château des Doyens (Dean’s Castle), which would later play host to one of Carennac’s most famous residents, François Fénelon. From 1681 to 1685, Fénelon served as the Dean of Carennac and during this time is believed to have written his renowned work “The Adventures of Telemachus” (Les Aventures de Télémaque), a political critique disguised as a novel.
Like many French villages, Carennac experienced further turbulence during the Wars of Religion in the 16th century and the French Revolution in the late 18th century. Despite these challenges, the village has preserved much of its medieval and Renaissance character, allowing visitors today to step back in time and experience the charm of historic rural France.
Must-See Attractions
Église Saint-Pierre and Cloister
At the heart of Carennac stands the Romanesque Church of Saint Peter (Église Saint-Pierre), an 11th-century masterpiece that exemplifies the architectural style of the period. The church’s most striking feature is its magnificent tympanum above the entrance, added in the 12th century. This remarkable piece of stone carving depicts Christ in Majesty surrounded by the four Evangelists and the twelve Apostles. Look closely, and you might even notice traces of the original polychrome paint that once made this sculpture brilliantly colorful.
Inside, the church presents a classic Benedictine abbey layout with a barrel-vaulted nave, two side aisles leading to the apse, and numerous carved capitals throughout. The square Romanesque bell tower rises above the transept, forming part of Carennac’s distinctive skyline.
Adjacent to the church is the half-Romanesque, half-Gothic cloister, partially dating from the 12th century but largely rebuilt in the 15th century after suffering damage during the Wars of Religion. To access the cloister, you’ll need to purchase a token from the Tourist Office for a small fee (approximately 3 euros). The cloister houses one of Carennac’s artistic treasures: a stunning 15th-century “Mise au Tombeau” (Entombment) sculpture depicting the burial of Christ, a masterpiece of late medieval religious art.
Renaissance Houses
As you explore Carennac’s streets, you’ll encounter numerous well-preserved Renaissance houses, many dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. Built from the local yellow-white stone and topped with distinctive red-brown terracotta tiles, these homes feature an array of architectural details worth noting:
- Elaborately carved window frames, each with unique designs
- Wooden balconies and decorative elements
- Tall chimneys that add to the village’s charming skyline
- Local brown-tiled roofs
Look for the “Rapunzel Tower” near the Dordogne River at the bottom of the village—round at the base and square at the top, it once formed the staircase of a larger building but now stands alone as an intriguing architectural feature.
Hidden Gems
Medieval Stalls and Historic Details
For those with a keen eye for historical details, Carennac offers numerous architectural treasures that might be missed at first glance. Look for:
- Medieval market stalls preserved along some of the streets
- Stone carvings and decorative elements on building facades
- Ancient doorways with intricate ironwork
- The various historic houses surrounding the Priory Courtyard, including one with a turret that once served as a refuge for pilgrims journeying to Rocamadour
The Mural of ‘The Three Dead Kings’
Inside the Church of Saint Pierre, seek out the fascinating mural of “The Three Dead Kings” (Les Trois Morts et Les Trois Vifs). This medieval allegory depicts three young noblemen encountered by three dead men who remind them of the importance of saving their souls—a vivid memento mori (remember that you must die) common in medieval art.
Chateau de Castelnau-Bretenoux
With its distinctive red sandstone walls rising dramatically from a rocky promontory, this majestic castle stands as a testament to nearly a millennium of French history.
Historical Background
Origins and Early Development (11th-13th Centuries)
The history of Château de Castelnau-Bretenoux begins around 1100 when Hugues, Baron of Castelnau, built the first fortifications around his manor on this strategic hilltop location. The Castelnau family was a powerful dynasty who ruled a prosperous region and were initially vassals of the Counts of Toulouse.
During the 12th century, the castle became a focal point in the conflicts between the French and English. In 1159, during his campaign to assert authority over his continental territories, King Henry II of England captured the castle. It would remain under English influence for a time before eventually returning to French control following the Hundred Years’ War.
The castle we see today began to take shape in the 13th century, when Baron Guérin de Castelnau initiated major construction around 1277. The square keep and the main residential building dating from this period still dominate the site today.
Expansion and Adaptation (14th-16th Centuries)
Between the 14th and 15th centuries, the castle underwent significant expansions and modifications to adapt its defenses to evolving warfare technologies, particularly the advent of artillery. During this period, the château acquired its distinctive triangular layout with round towers at each angle. The addition of the artillery tower and other defensive elements transformed Castelnau into one of the most formidable fortresses in the region.
In the late 14th century, the barons of Castelnau, backed by royal support, gave the château its definitive form over the following two centuries. The family’s power and influence continued to grow as they inherited numerous possessions from the Calmont d’Olt family in Aveyron and formed strategic alliances, including with the Caylus family of Rouergue in the 15th century.
The Golden Age and Decline (16th-19th Centuries)
In the 16th century, the Clermont-Lodève family inherited the Castelnau estate. This period saw the management of Louise de Bretagne-Avaugour, who divided her time between the court of Catherine de Médicis and her beloved Castelnau.
The 17th century marked a golden age for the château under Alexandre de Castelnau, who transformed the austere fortress into a luxurious residence. Large windows were added, salons were richly decorated, and a grand balcony overlooking the valley was constructed, along with arcaded galleries.
The castle’s fortunes waned following the death of the last Castelnau in 1715, a twelve-year-old girl. The property reverted to her mother, a member of the de Luynes family. During the French Revolution, although the castle was largely spared the widespread destruction that befell many aristocratic residences, its library and archives were burned, and the fortress fell into neglect.
The castle changed hands several times in the 19th century, with various owners contemplating either restoration or demolition. Disaster struck in 1851 when a criminal fire devastated the structure, leaving it in ruins.
Resurrection Under Jean Mouliérat (1896-1932)
The château’s salvation came in 1896 when Jean Mouliérat, a tenor at the Paris Opéra-Comique and an avid art collector, purchased the ruined castle. Born in the Lot region, Mouliérat was deeply touched by the castle’s sad silhouette and devoted his fortune and energy to restoring it.
Over the next thirty years, he painstakingly rebuilt the fortress and furnished it with his extensive collection of furniture, paintings, tapestries, statuary, and objets d’art from various periods. A friend to many artists and intellectuals of his time, Mouliérat welcomed numerous famous personalities to Castelnau, including the sculptor Auguste Rodin and the authors Colette and Willy.
Before his death in 1932, Mouliérat donated the château and its collections to the French state. In accordance with his wishes, the apartments remain today just as he had decorated them, offering visitors a glimpse into both medieval architecture and the aesthetic sensibilities of the early 20th century.
Architecture and Layout
Château de Castelnau-Bretenoux stands on a rocky spur at the intersection of several valleys, including the Dordogne River. Its commanding position made it a strategic military stronghold, offering control over the surrounding territory. The castle is easily visible from a distance and unmistakable due to its striking red sandstone walls.
Exterior Features
The castle’s layout is nearly triangular, with impressive round towers at each angle. The perimeter is defined by three enclosing walls approximately 250 meters in length, incorporating six semi-circular towers and three spur bastions. The only entrance is on the south side via a ramp.
The exterior showcases the evolution of military architecture from the 12th to the 15th centuries. Visitors can observe how the fortress was continually adapted to meet the changing demands of medieval warfare, particularly the introduction of artillery. The thick walls and imposing towers testify to the castle’s primary function as a defensive structure designed to withstand sieges and attacks.
Loubressac
With its golden stone houses, brown tile roofs, and flower-adorned balconies, Loubressac embodies the quintessential French countryside village that seems frozen in time.
Historical Background
Loubressac’s history stretches back centuries, with its name having Gallo-Roman origins derived from the anthroponym “Lupercius,” coupled with the Gallic suffix “-acon” (often Latinized to “-acum” in texts).
The village as we know it today began to take shape in the 13th century as a castrum (fortified settlement) under the control of the barons of Castelnau-Gramat. Its strategic position atop a rocky peak overlooking the left bank of the Bave river made it an important defensive location. The settlement developed around the château and the church, forming a small fortified medieval community.
In the 14th century, Adhémar d’Aigrefeuille, a Marshal of the Papal Court, had the Château de Loubressac built on the spur dominating the village, establishing it as the residence of the Barons of Loubressac. Over the centuries, successive noble families contributed to the expansion and modification of the château, which displays architectural elements from various periods ranging from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.
During the 16th century, Loubressac was not spared from the religious conflicts that swept across France. Evidence of this tumultuous period can still be seen in the church’s sculptured portal, which was partially defaced by Protestants who occupied Loubressac in 1572.
In more recent history, Loubressac played a significant role during World War II. On July 14, 1944, as part of Operation Cadillac, the largest parachute drop of weapons (558 containers) for the French Resistance took place in the commune, on a field at La Maresque, carried out by 75 B-17 Flying Fortresses accompanied by 200 fighters.
The village has also been immortalized in popular culture. In 1972, director Georges Lautner chose Loubressac as the main filming location for his comedy film “Quelques messieurs trop tranquilles” (Some Too Quiet Gentlemen), which was released in 1973. The film, which tells the story of hippies arriving in a tranquil village and the ensuing culture clash with locals, has achieved cult status in French cinema.
In 1909, the château was acquired by Henri Lavedan, a member of the Académie Française, marking another chapter in the village’s cultural significance. Today, while the château remains a private property not open to the public, it continues to be an emblematic feature of Loubressac’s skyline.
Must-See Sights
Panoramic Viewpoints
Loubressac’s most remarkable feature is undoubtedly its exceptional panoramic views. From its elevated position at 354 meters above sea level, the village offers breathtaking vistas across three valleys.
The main viewpoint, located near the edge of the village, provides a sweeping panorama that encompasses the Dordogne Valley, the Château de Castelnau-Bretenoux in the distance, the Tours de Saint-Laurent, and on clear days, even glimpses of other notable villages in the region. This vista has been described by many as one of the finest in the entire Lot department.
French photographer Robert Doisneau, famous for his iconic “Kiss by the Hôtel de Ville,” was so enchanted by the quality of light in Loubressac that he proclaimed it had “the most beautiful light in the world.” Visit at sunset when the golden hour bathes the landscape in warm hues, creating an unforgettable spectacle.
Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste
The 12th-century Church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste stands at the heart of the village, with its imposing bell tower accessed by a spiral staircase. The church combines Romanesque elements with Gothic influences, reflecting modifications made over the centuries.
One of its most notable features is the sculptured portal, which bears the scars of history – it was partially defaced by Protestants who occupied Loubressac in 1572. Inside, the church presents a serene atmosphere typical of rural French places of worship, with simple but elegant architectural details.
The church underwent significant modifications in the 16th century, and today it stands as a testament to the village’s religious heritage. Its bell tower forms an integral part of Loubressac’s distinctive silhouette.
Château de Loubressac
Built in the 14th century as the residence of the Barons of Loubressac, the château dominates the village from its position at the highest point. While not open to the public (as it remains a private property), its external architecture can be admired from several vantage points in the village.
The château showcases architectural elements from different periods, from the Middle Ages through to the 18th century, reflecting the contributions of the successive families who owned it. Its presence adds significantly to the medieval character and skyline of Loubressac.
Medieval Village Center
The heart of Loubressac is a delight to explore, with its network of narrow, winding streets lined with beautifully preserved medieval houses. These dwellings, built from local ochre-colored stone with distinctive brown tile roofs, create a harmonious architectural ensemble that earned the village its “Most Beautiful Villages of France” designation.
Walking through the village, visitors will discover charming details such as ancient doorways, stone staircases, and flower-filled balconies and courtyards. During summer months, the floral displays are particularly impressive – Loubressac has been awarded flowers in the “Concours des villes et villages fleuris” (Towns and Villages in Bloom competition).
The main square features the village’s war memorial, which cinephiles might recognize from the final battle scene in “Quelques messieurs trop tranquilles.”
Autoire
Snuggled in a welcoming cirque, this idyllic village rotates around its central fountain and square.
Founded in the 11th century around a Benedictine priory, Autoire flourished during the Renaissance period (15th-16th centuries) when wealthy merchants and officials from nearby Martel and Saint-Céré built grand manor houses here. The village escaped the religious wars that devastated much of France, preserving its authentic architecture remarkably well.
The village’s name derives from the Latin “altorium,” referring to its high plateau setting. During medieval times, Autoire was strategically important, controlling access to the Dordogne Valley.
Hidden Gems
The Old Washing House (Le Lavoir)
Hidden down a side street near the church, this restored 19th-century communal washing house offers insight into daily village life. The clear water still flows from natural springs.
The Secret Garden (“Le Jardin Secret”)
A tiny private garden occasionally open to visitors, featuring medieval herbs and flowers typical of a Renaissance manor garden. Check local tourism office for opening times.
The Miller’s Path (Sentier du Meunier)
An unmarked trail following the ancient water channels that once powered the village mills. Perfect for photography enthusiasts seeking quiet spots.
Night Views
For a magical experience, visit the village at dusk when the limestone houses glow golden in the setting sun, and the dramatic cliffs create striking silhouettes.
Rocamadour
An hour east of Sarlat-la-Caneda, this historic town with its dramatic rock-face is a sight after dark. Once one of Europe’s top pilgrimage sites, today it feels more tacky than spiritual. Still, if you can get into the medieval mindset, its dramatic, cliffhanger setting – combined with the memory of the countless thousands of faithful who trekked from all over Europe to worship here – overwhelms the kitschy tourism and makes it a worthwhile two-hour stop.
Rocamadour has three levels, connected by steps and trails or elevators. The bottom level is a single, long pedestrian street lined with shops and restaurants. The sanctuary level – the main attraction – sits halfway up the massive cliff, 223 holy steps above La Cite. Its centerpiece is a church with seven chapels gathered around a small square. A switchback grail, the Way of the Cross, leads from the sanctuary to the top level. Here you’ll find a cliff-capping chateau
In the Upper Town – the first view of Rocamadour is the same as the one seen by medieval pilgrims – at the top of the gorge from the hamlet of L’Hospitalet, named for the hospitality it gave pilgrims. Beautiful views. Imagine the impact of this sight in the 13th century, as awestruck pilgrims first gazed on the sanctuary cut from the limestone cliffs. It was through L’Hospitalet’s fortified gate that medieval pilgrims gained access to the Holy Way, the path leading from L’Hospitalet to Rocamadour.
Between Upper and Lower Towns – Sanctuary of Our Lady of Rocamadour – These sights form the heart of your vertical sightseeing.
Thought the buildings originated much earlier most of what we see was rebuilt in the 19th century. Cramed onto a ledge on a cliff, the church couldn’t follow the standard floor plan, so its seven chapels surround the square (called the parvis) rather than the church. The bishop’s palace and the Chapel of St. Blaise de la Devine Mistericorde are behind you. The bishop’s palace has a gift shop selling various pilgrimage mementos, including modern versions of the medallions that pilgrims prized centuries ago as proof of their visit.
In this tomb is where the miraculously preserved body of St. Amadour was found in 1166. Places of pilgrimages do better with multiple miracles, so, along with its Black Virgin and the miracle of St. Amadour’s body, Rocamadour has the Sword of Roland.
The rusty sword of Charlemagne’s nephew sticks in the cliffside, 30 feet above Amadour’s tomb and a bit to the right. According to medieval sources, Roland was about to die I battle, but the great warrior didn’t want his sword to fall into enemy hands. He hurled it from deep in southern France, and it landed here – stuck miraculously into the Rocamadour cliffs just above the Black Virgin. The sword is clearly from the 18th century, but never mind.
St. Michael’s Chapel – The chapel is built around the original cave. A few steps farther along, the tiny Chapel of St-Louis is sculpted into the rock with a view terrace just beyond. Since 2011 this chapel has been dedicated to “Notre-Dame du Rugby,” honoring a sport that’s revered in southwestern Franc by displaying jerseys on the wall.
Chapel of our Lady – sitting above the altar is the much-venerated Black Virgin, a 12th-century statue (covered with a thin plating of blackened silver) that depicts Mary presenting Jesus to the world. The oldest thing in the sanctuary – from the ninth-century – is a simple rusted bell hanging from the ceiling.
The suspended sailboat models are a reminder that sailors relied on Mary for safe passage, and the marble plaque on the wall lists “incontestable” years of miracles, mostly from sailors who were in danger of being shipwrecked.
The adjacent Church of St. Sauveur is the sanctuary’s main place of worship. You can’t miss the dazzling organ, installed in 2013. The impressive wooden balcony was designed for the monks. Imagine attending a Mass here in centuries past, when pilgrims filled the church and monks lined those balconies. While Rocamadour’s church seems more like a tourist attraction, it remains a sacred place of worship. A sign reminds tourists “to admire, to contemplate, to pray. You’re welcome to respectfully visit.” A bulletin board on the wall usually displays fliers for pilgrimages to Lourdes or Santiago de Compostela. Rocamadour has been both a key destination and staging point for pilgrims for centuries.
In the Lower Town – Rocamadour’s town is basically one long street traversing the cliff below the sanctuary. For eight centuries it has housed, fed, and sold sourvenirs to visitors like us.
Of Rocamadour’s 11 original gates, seven survive (designed to control the pilgrim crowds). IN the 14th century, as many as 20,000 people a day from all over Europe would converge on this spot. From the western end of town, 223 steps lead up to the church at the sanctuary level. Traditionally, pilgrims kneel on each and pray an “Ave Maria” to Our Lady.