Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
So much more than a shopping arcade, the neoclassical Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is a soaring structure of iron and glass. Nicknamed ‘ il salotto di Milano’, the city’s drawing room, it’s been at the center of city life since 1877. Its known for its high-end boutiques (the original Prada store is located here) and equally lofty dining.
This breathtaking four-story glass-domed arcade, next to Piazza del Duomo, is a symbol of Milan. The iron-and-glass shopping mall (built during the age of Eiffel and the heady days of Italian unification) showcased a new, modern era. It was the first building in town to have electric lighting, and since its inception it’s been an elegant and popular meeting place. Sadly, its designer, Giuseppe Mengoni, died the day before the gallery opened). Here, in this covered piazza, you can turn an expensive cup of coffee into a good value by enjoying some of Europe’s best people-watching.
The venerable Bar Camparino (at the Galleria’s Piazza del Duomo entry), with a friendly staff and a period interior surviving from the 1870s, is the former haunt of famous opera composer Giuseppe Verdi and conductor Arturo Toscanini, who used to stop by after their performances at La Scala. It’s a fine place to enjoy a drink and people watch. The café’ is named after the Campari family (its first owners), originators of the famous red Campari bitter.
Wander around the Galleria. Its art celebrates the establishment of Italy as an independent country. Around the central dome, patriotic mosaics the four major continents (sorry, Australia). The mosaic floor is also patriotic. The white cross in the center is part of the king’s coat of arms. The she-wolf with Romulus and Remus (on the south side- facing Rome) honors the city that, since 1870, has been the national capital. On the west side (facing Torino, the provisional capital of Italy from 1861 to 1865), you’ll find that city’s symbol: a torino (little bull). For good luck, locals step on his irresistible little testicles. Often they spin two times clockwise. Find the poor little bull and observe for a few minutes… it’s a cute scene. Jackie thought she’d give it a whirl…
