The most substantial town of the five, Riomaggiore is a disappointment from the train station. But walk through the tunnel next to the tracks, and you’ll discover a more real and laid-back town than its more touristy neighbors.
The main drag, while traffic-free, feels more urban than “village”, and surrounding the harbor is a fascinating tangle of pastel homes leaning on each other like drunken sailors. Despite Riomaggiore’s workaday soul, the views back on its harbor from the breakwater – especially at sunset – are some of the region’s prettiest.
The major river of this region once ran through this valley, as implied by the name Riomaggiore (local dialect for “river” and “major”). As in the other Cinque Terre towns, the main street covers its rio Maggiore, which carved the canyon now filled by the town’s pastel high-rises.
The romantic arched bridges that once connected the two sides have been replaced by practical modern road. Other than, the town is beautifully preserved.
The church, while rebuilt in 1970, was first established in 1340. It’s dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of Genoa, the maritime republic that once dominated the region.
Harbor – This most picturesque corner of Riomaggiore features a tight cluster of buildings huddling nervously around a tiny square and harbor. Because Riomaggiore lacks the naturally protected harbor of Vernazza, when bad weather is expected, fishermen pull their boats up to the safety of the little square.
It is quite an operation, so it’s a team effort – the signal goes out, and anyone with a boat of their own helps move the whole fleet. Sometimes the fishermen are busy beaching their boats even on a bright, sunny day – an indication that they know something you don’t.
Monterosso al Mare
The only Cinque Terre town with some flat land – has two parts: A new town (called Fegina) with a parking lot, train station; and an old town (Centro Storico), which cradles Old World charm with its small, crooked lanes.
In the old town, you’ll find hole-in-the-wall shops, rustic pastel townscapes, and a new generation of creative small-businesspeople eager to keep their visitors happy. A handy pedestrian tunnel connects the old with the new.
This is a resort town with a few cars and lots of hotels, rentable beach umbrellas, and crowds. Strolling the waterfront promenade, you can pick out each of the Cinque Terre towns decorating the coast.
After dark, they sparkle. Monterosso is the most enjoyable of the five for backpackers or the young-at-heart wanting to connect with other looking for a little nightlife.
These days, the harbor hosts more paddleboats than fishing boats. Erosion is a major problem.
The partial breakwater – the row of giant rocks in the middle of the harbor – is designed to save the beach from washing away. While old-timers remember a vast beach, their grandchildren truck in sand each spring to give tourists something to bask on.
The Nazis like the Cinque Terre too – find two of their bomb-hardened bunkers embedded in the bluff. During WWII, nearby La Spezia was an important Axis naval base, and Monterosso was bombed while the Germans were here.
The Church of St. John the Baptist
Appreciate the black-and-white striped main facade. With white marble from Carrara and green marble from Punta Mesco, the church is typical of the region’s Gothic Style. The church’s marble stripes get narrower the higher they go, creating the illusion that the church is taller than it really is.
Inside, original marble columns and capitals with pointed arches to match. The octagonal baptismal font was carved from Carrara marble in 1359.
The fine Baroque altar was crafted from various marbles from around Italy in the 1700s. The church itself dates from 1307 – the proud inscription on the left-middle column reads “MilloCCCVII”
The Oratory of the Dead (Oratorio dei Neri)
During the counter-Reformation, the Catholic Church offset the rising influence of the Lutherans by creating brotherhoods of good works. These religious “Rotary Clubs” were called “confraternities.” Monterosso had two, nicknamed White and Black.
This building is the oratory of the Black group, whose mission – as the macabre decor filling the interior indicates – was to arrange for funerals and take care of widows, orphans, the shipwrecked, and the souls of those who ignore the request for a $1 donation. 🙂
It dates from the 16th century, and membership has passed for father to son for generations.
The fine, carved pews (c. 1700) with toothy smiling skulls remind us that mortality is nothing to fear.
Capuchin Church and Cemetery Climb
The hill that separates the old town from the new rewards anyone who climbs up with a peaceful church, a cemetery in the clouds, and a panoramic view.
Partway up the climb, there is a terrace on the seaside above a castle with a statue of St. Francis and a wolf taking in a grand view. From here on a good day one can see all five of the Cinque Terre towns. But not today… 🙁
The former monastery is now manned by a single caretaker friar. I did not get a chance to meet him. Notice the church’s striped Romanesque facade. It’s all fake. It’s not marble – just cheap 18th-century stucco.
Inside, the high altarpiece painting of St. Francis can be rolled up on special days to reveal a statue of Mary standing behind it.
Here is an example of the little Christmas village found inside and up during the holidays in many churches in Italy. The single Friar likely does not have the time to take it down. 🙁
Notice the rock inlay and designs.
The cemetery was beautiful. I enjoyed pondering the black-and-white photos of grandparents past.
Rich families have their own little tomb buildings.
Read the headstones: Q.M.P. – Questa Memoria Pose – May his/her memory remain.
In the Dark Ages, the village huddled behind the castle. As the threat of pirates passed, it slowly expanded to the waterfront. Notice the town view from here – no sea. This is the oldest part of Monterosso, tucked behind the hill – out of view of 13th-century pirates.
At the very summit – the castle’s keep (or place of last refuge), you find the priests. Priests are buried in a line of graves closest to the sea.
But they face inland, looking towards the town’s holy santuary high on the hillside.
It is a beautiful place. Note the small battery powered lights on some graves to keep a little night at night and the evil spirits away.
I was moved by this hike and cemetery. So peaceful. The walk down was beautiful as well.
Jackie catching up on things at home.
A look back towards the beach and new town.
My trail going down. Notice the wall work – no rods or mortar… just stone.
