Welcome back! In this session, we’ll dive into the planning for a three-day visit to the remarkable and stunning Northern Wales. We’ll use our process to help us determine:
- What should we see?
- Where should we sleep?
- Where/What should we eat?
This is Day 7, 8 and 9 of our England/Wales/Scotland Trip. We’ll enjoy the drive from the Cotswolds to Northern Wales. It will be around 3 1/2 hours of driving, but a rather short distance. This is mountain country – home to Snowdonia National Park. We’ll settle into the city of Conwy, Wales and tour it’s superb Castle. Day 8 will find us visiting the castle where the Prince of Wales gets his title – along with one of the most stunning gardens I’ve ever seen. We’ll spend Day 9 in the mountains, and perhaps take in a lovely hike up into the dells.
According to our Patron Saint Rick Steves, Northern Wales is where you’ll find Wales’ top historical, cultural, and natural wonders. It is a poem written in landscape. Imagine my surprise a few years back when after taking a DNA test from Ancestry.com that I found out that I was Welsh… I had no idea! So when I first visited the area, I went with that reason in mind. After my first visit… I fell in love with the place and knew I had to return and bring my best friend (my wife Jackie) with me.
Saint Rick says that the “Absolute minimum” amount of time to spend in this area for a “best of” North Wales experience is two nights and a day. I know we will not regret spending an extra day and night.
Just like the Cotswolds, this is a land where it is the place you want to see as much as the things to see. We’ll have Castles… we’ll have gardens… we’ll have mountains. What more could one want? 🙂
What Should We See?
Using Rick Steves and cross-checking with the folks at Lonely Planet, here is our primary list of sights:
- Llangollen
- Pen-Y-Pass
- Conwy Castle
- Caernarfon Castle
- Bodnant Garden
- Betws-y-Coed
- Snowdonia National Park
- Cwm Idwal Trail
- Beddegelert
Our drive from the Cotswolds will take us thru Llangollen and likely thru Pen-Y-Pass. This peninsula – which juts out into the Irish Sea and has several famous island just off shore, is dominated by Snowdonia National Park and Mt. Snowden. Edward the First built a series of Castles to protect (and dominate) the Welsh people along the coast. Conwy – which was built in the 1280s to give Edward his toehold, was built in just four years.
Just down the coast about an hour, the mighty Caernarfon was built not only as a castle but also as a palace, it was modeled after the striped walls of ancient Constantinople. It was never really finished… it was never really used as intended, but it is the place where the Prince of Wales is invested with his title. Fans of “The Crown” will recognize it as a character of a key episode.
I have been to some gardens in my time, but nothing is quite like Bodnant Gardens – mostly due to the stunning piece of land that holds it.
It is the National Park that is the jewel here – and Beddegelert is the quintessential Snowdon village – it packs the scenic mountain punch without the crush of too-many tourists.
The secondary sights are also outstanding – and are found mostly in and around the National Park. Have your pencils ready to take in some of these sights as well (as interest and time permits):
- Plas Mawr
- Snowdon Mountain Railway
- National Slate Museum
- Llechwedd Slate Caverns
- Plas Newydd
- Harlech Castle
- Ogwen Valley
- Pontcysyyite Aquaduct.
The last list has another castle – visit it if you love the idea of a “moat”, a curiosity, and a folly:
- Portmeirion
- Smallest House in Great Britain
- Beaumaris Castle
Lastly, both St. Rick and St. Lonely Planet share a Self Guided Walk around Conwy and a 6-hour hike in the mountains for the more adventurous. 🙂
Where should we sleep?
There are two logical options when considering where to lay your head – Conwy and Caernarfon. Each is an old walled town that is attached to its castle. I think Conwy is the more charming of the two and makes the better home base. It’s a bit smaller of a city, and is not as well connected (but remember we have a car)… if you are using public transportation I would probably suggest Caernarfon.
During my visit last year, I had the chance to stay at the Gwnfryn B&B. My room was simple, but the hosts were among the most enchanting people I’ve ever met – especially the grand dame of the place. When I told her that I was considering returning with Jackie, she made me promise that I would choose one of her other rooms and would return to introduce her to my wife. I aim on keeping that promise. 🙂
The Castle Hotel also looks fantastic, and is more of an Inn than a B&B. If Inn’s are a bit more your speed (I could spend hours in the bar here), I think it would be a fantastic choice as well.
Finally… Where to Eat?
There is a pretty good list of Eating-Well and Eating-Pub choices in the Conwy and Caernarfon area. Here is our list of restaurants we’ll be giving a try from both lists:
- Watson’s Bistro
- Shakespeare’s
- The Erskine Arms
- Alfredo Restaurant
- Bistro Betws-y-Coed
- Osteria
And the very important Eating – Pubs:
- Bank of Conwy Craft Beer House
- Hole in the Wall Street (Caernarfon)
- Palace Street Eateries (Caenarfon)
- Parisella’s of Conwy (Ice Cream!!)
We have reservations at Shakespeare’s, Watson’s Bistro, and will then play it by ear for the final stop – have done the Alfredo Restaurant (good family choice) but may give Osteria or The Erskine Arms a try. We’ll certainly have lunch at one of the places on the Hole in the Wall Street or Palace Street in Caernarfon.
So there you have it… here is our preliminary itinerary for Days 6, 7 and 8:
Day 6
- Drive from Chipping Campden to Conwy, taking in Llangollen and driving up and over the Pen-Y-Pass. We’ll talk our time… arriving into Conwy in the mid afternoon and will then walk the city walls, wander the streets, take a tour of the castle, and settle in for a fine dinner.
Day 7
- Visit Bodnant Gardens
- Travel down to Caernarfon and tour the castle and wander the old city around the castle.
Day 8
- Spend our time in and around Snowdonia National Park.
- Visit the cute as hell little village of Betws-y-Coed.
- Perhaps take in the Cwm Idwal Hike (if I can find a parking spot!! 🙁 )
- Visit the village of Beddegelert and see grave of Gilbert.
I hope you have found this helpful. Next up – Prep for Day 10, 11 and 12 – the Lakes District.