The historic city of Stirling is the crossroads of Scotland: Equidistant from Edinburgh and Glasgow (less than an hour from both), and rising above a plain where the Lowlands meet the Highlands, it’s no surprise that Stirling has hosted many of the biggest names (and biggest battles) of Scottish history.
Everyone from Mary, Queen of Scots to Bonnie Prince Charlie has passed through the gates of its stately, strategic castle.
It is here were the Battle of Stirling Bridge occurred… where against all odds, the courageous William Wallace defeated the English army; the Battle of Falkirk, where Wallace was toppled by a vengeful English king; and the Battle of Bannockburn, when – in the wake of Wallace’s defeat – Robert the Bruce rallied to kick out the English once and for all (well, at least for a few generations.
The Wallace Monument is practically a pilgrimage site for patriotic Scots. It’s like Bunker Hill, Gettysburg, and Alamo, all rolled into one. The monument commemorates the Scottish hero better known to us Americans as “Braveheart,”, the sandstone tower – built during a wave of Scottish nationalism in the mid-19th century – marks the Abbey Craig hill on the outskirts of Stirling.
This is where, in 1297, William Wallace gathered forces and secured his victory against England’s King Edward I at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. The victory was a huge boost for the Scottish cause, but England came back to beat the Scots the very next year.
You enter the visitors center at the bottom of the hill. Then you can either ride a shuttle bus to the monument’s base, or you can hike up. For some reason… we hiked. It was a bit further than we had imagined. 🙂
Gazing up, the mind wanders to how this fanciful 19th-century structure, like so many around Europe at that age, was created and designed to evoke (and romanticize) earlier architecture styles – in this case, medieval Scottish castles. The crown-shaped top – reminiscent of St. Giles’ Cathedral on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh – and the dynamic sculpture of William Wallace are patriotic to the max.
Once at the monument you can pick up your ticket and then climb the tight, stone spiral staircase (not for the claustrophobic) a total of 246 steps, stopping at each of the three levels to see museum displays (and catch your breath). Jackie sat this one out – sitting in the courtyard (under a drizzle) while I climbed.
The first level, the Hall of Arms, tells the story of William Wallace and the Battle of Stirling Bridge and gives us the chance to ogle Wallace’s five-foot-long broadsword. A video presentation does a nice job of setting the stage for the importance of Wallace to both the Scots… but also to the English. One person’s freedom fighter is another person’s terrorist.
Second level is the Hall of Heroes, adorned with busts of great Scots – suggesting the debt this nation owes to Wallace.
The third level are about the monument itself – how it was built and why.
Finally , you reach the top, with stunning views over Stirling, its castle, the winding River Forth, and Stirling Bridge – a 500-year-old stone version that replaced the original one.
Looking out from the same vantage point as Wallace, one can imagine how the famous battle played out. But if you find yourself picturing the scene from the movie.. .with berserker Scots, their faces painted blue, running across a field to take one the English cavalry – you have the wrong idea. The battle took place on a bridge in a narrow valley.
The sun came out just in time for some pretty views. Then it was back down the tight stairs to retrieve Jackie and head towards Edinburgh. 🙂