The Dordogne River Valley is a delicious brew, blending natural and man-made beauty. Walnut orchards, tobacco plants, sunflowers, and cornfields carpet the valley, while stone fortresses patrol the cliffs above. During much of the on-again, off-again Hundred Years’ War this strategic river – so peaceful today – separated warring England and France. Today’s Dordogne River carries more travelers than goods, as the region’s economy relies heavily on tourism.
The joys of Dordogne include rock-sculpted villages, formidable castles, fertile farms surrounding I-should-retire-here cottages, magnificent vistas, lazy canoe rides, and a local cuisine worth loosening your belt for. You’ll also find an amazing cache of prehistoric artifacts. Limestone caves decorated with prehistoric artwork litter the Dordgone region.
The Dordogne’s Cuisine Scene
Gourmets flock to this area for its geese, ducks, and wild musrhooms. The geese produce (involuntarily) the region’s famous foie gras. (They’re force-fed, denied exercise during the last weeks of their lives, and slaughtered for their livers, meat and fluffy down). Foie gras tastes like butter and costs like gold. The main duck specialty is confit de canard (duck meat preserved in its own fat – sounds terrible, but tastes great.) You’ll also see magret de canard (sauteed duck breast), smoked duck, and anything fried in duck fat on menus.
Pommes de terre saradaises are mouthwatering, thinly sliced potatoes fried in duck fat and commonly served with confit de canard. Wild truffles are dirty black mushrooms that grow underground, generally on the roots of oak trees. Farmers traditionally locate them with sniffing pigs and then charge a fortune for their catch (roughly $300 per pound). Local cepe mushrooms are commonly pan-fried with parsley and garlic – look for omelets cooked this way.
Native cheeses are Cabecou (a silver-dollar-size, pungent, nutty-flavored goat cheese) and Echourgnac (made by local Trappist monks). You’ll find walnuts (noix) in breads, salads, cakes, liqueurs, salad dressings, and more.
The region is not known for producing great wine, but prices are reasonable. Wines to sample are Bergerac (red, white, and rose), Pecharmant (red, must be at least four years old), Cahors (a full-bodied red), and Monbazillac (sweet dessert wine). The vin de noix (sweet walnut liqueur) is delightful before dinner.
Introduction
Nestled in the heart of the Dordogne region in southwestern France, Sarlat-la-Canéda (often simply called “Sarlat”) is one of the most beautifully preserved medieval towns in Europe. With its golden limestone buildings, winding cobblestone streets, and extraordinary concentration of historic monuments, Sarlat offers visitors an authentic journey back in time. The town is officially designated as a “City of Art and History” and boasts the highest density of classified historical monuments in the world.
Sarlat is a pedestrian-filled banquet of a town, serenely set amid forested hills with no blockbuster sites. Still, Sarlat delivers a seductive tangle of traffic-free, golden cobblestone lanes peppered with beautiful buildings, lined with foie gras shops (geese hate Sarlat), and stuffed with tourists. The town is warmly lit at night and ideal for after-dinner strolls. It’s just the right size – large enough to have a theater with four screens, but small enough that everything is an easy meander from the town center. And though undeniably popular with tourists, it’s the handiest home base for those without a car.
Historical Background
Sarlat-la-Canéda’s history dates back to the 8th century when a Benedictine abbey was established in the area, one of the six great abbeys of Périgord. The village flourished due to its strategic location on the Dordogne river along major trade routes.
During the Hundred Years’ War, Sarlat gained significance as it was located on the frontier between English-controlled Aquitaine and the French Kingdom.
In 1965, the towns of Sarlat and La Caneda merged under the name of Sarlat-la-Canéda. It’s classified as a town of Art and History in the Dordogne department of the Aquitaine region.
Architectural Highlights
The town is filled with beautiful limestone architecture, with the Cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos standing tall and showcasing intricate stained-glass windows that reveal its rich history.
The old town features buildings dating from both medieval and Renaissance times, with the golden sandstone buildings being particularly beautiful in the early morning sunshine.
Rue des Consuls is one of the highlights of Sarlat, containing several impressive mansions including the 16th century Hotel de Mirandol, the 14th century Hotel Plamon, and the 15th century Hotel de Vassal with its double turret.
Must-See Attractions
Cathedral of Saint Sacerdos (Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos): Originally a Romanesque abbey church, transformed into a cathedral in the 14th century with Gothic additions
Church of Saint Mary (Église Sainte-Marie): A 14th-century church brilliantly repurposed by architect Jean Nouvel to serve as a covered market, featuring a panoramic elevator in the bell tower offering 360° views over Sarlat’s rooftops
Lantern of the Dead (Lanterne des Morts): A mysterious 12th-century stone tower located behind the cathedral, whose original purpose remains debated
At night, the gaslit lanterns transform the entire town into what looks like a fairytale.
The Manoir de Gisson, a well-preserved manor house dating back to the 13th century, offers visitors a glimpse into the lifestyle of local nobility during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.
La Boétie House is a stunning example of Italian Renaissance architecture, built in 1525 as the birthplace of Etienne de la Boétie, a renowned writer, judge, and philosopher.
The Medieval Center
- Place de la Liberté: The beautiful main square, surrounded by restaurants and cafés housed in historic buildings
- Rue de la République: The main commercial street that divides the medieval town
- Rue des Consuls: One of the most impressive streets in Sarlat, lined with remarkable Renaissance mansions
Hidden Gems
Within Sarlat
- Place du Marché des Oies: The “Goose Market Square,” featuring a statue of geese in the center, pays homage to the importance of geese in regional gastronomy
- The Ascenseur Panoramique: The glass elevator inside the bell tower of Sainte-Marie Church offers spectacular views but is often overlooked by visitors
- Jardin des Enfeus: A peaceful garden next to the cathedral, containing stone sarcophagi (enfeus) where notable citizens were buried
- Town Hall Bell Tower: Notice the circular bell tower perched atop the Town Hall roof in Place de la Liberté
Unusual Features
- Occitan Language Signs: Notice the bilingual street signs in French and Occitan (the historical regional language)
- Renaissance Door Knockers: Many historic buildings feature ornate original door knockers and hardware
- Medieval Roof Tiles: Look up to see the traditional lauze stone roof tiles, an architectural feature typical of the Périgord
- Hidden Courtyards: Many public passageways lead to beautiful private courtyards – some can be glimpsed through open gates
Saturday Market: One of the most renowned markets in France, sprawling throughout the old town with local produce, foie gras, truffles, cheeses, and crafts
Suggested Wander
This wander works well in the day – but in some ways it’s better after dinner, when the gaslit lanes and candlelit restaurants twinkle.
Place du Peyrou – An eight-century Benedictine abbey once stood where the Cathedral of St. Sacerdos is today. It provided the stability for Sarlat to develop into an important trading city during the Middle Ages. The Old Bishop’s Palace, built right into the cathedral (on the right, with its top-floor Florentine-style loggia), recalls Sarlat’s Italian connection. The Italian bishop was the boyfriend of Catherine de’ Medici (queen of France) – a relationship that landed him this fine residence. After a short stint here, he split to Paris with loads of local money. And though his departure scandalized the town, it left Sarlat with a heritage of Italian architecture. (Notice the fine Italianate house of Etienne de la Boetie on the opposite side of the square and the similar loggia to its right).
Another reason for Sarlat’s Italo-flavored urban design was its loyalty to the king during wartime. Sarlat’s glory century was from about 1450 to 1550, after the Hundred Years’ War. Loyal to the French cause – through a century of war – Sarlat was rewarded by the French king, who gave the town lots of money to rebuild itself in stone. Sarlat’s new nobility needed fancy houses, complete with ego-boosting features. Many of Sarlat’s most impressive buildings date from this prosperous era, when the Renaissance style was in vogue and everyone wanted an architect with an Italian resume.
The House of Etienne de la Boetie – This house was a typical 16th-century merchant’s home – family upstairs and open ground floor (its stone arch now filled in) with big, fat sills to display retail goods. Pan up, scanning the crude-but-still-Renaissance carved reliefs. It was a time when anything Italian was trendy (when yokels “stuck a feather in their cap and called it macaroni”). La Boetie (lah bow-ess-ee), a 16th-century bleeding-heart liberal who spoke and wrote against the rule of tyrannical kings, remains a local favorite.
Notice how the house just to the left arches over the small street. This was a common practice to maximize buildable space in the Middle Ages. Sarlat enjoyed a population boom in the mid-15th century after the Hundred Years’ War ended.
Cathedral of St. Sacerdos – Though the cathedral’s façade has a few well-worn 12th-century carvings, most of its dates from the 18th and 19th centuries. The faithful believed that Mary delivered them from the great plague of 1348, so you’ll find a full complement of Virgin Marys here and throughout the town. The Gothic interiors in this part of France are simple, with clean lines and nothing extravagant. The first chapel on the left is the baptistery. Locals would come here to give thanks after they made the pilgrimage to Lourdes for healing and returned satisfied. The second column on the right side of the nave shows a long list of hometown boys who gave their lives for France in World War I.
Lantern of the Dead (Lanterne des Morts) – Dating from 1147, this is the oldest monument in town. In four horrible days, a quarter of Sarlat’s population (1,000 out of 4,000) died in a plague. People prayed to St. Bernard of Clairvaux for help. He blessed their bread – and instituted hygiene standards while he was at it, stopping the disease. This lantern was built in gratitude and as a marker for the cemetery that was located behind it.Rue de la Salamandre – The salamander – unfazed by fire or water – was Sarlat’s mascot.
Befitting its favorite animal, Sarlat was also unfazed by fire (from war) and water (from floods). The Gothic-framed doorway is found in a tower that housed the staircase. Spiral staircase towers like this (Sarlat has about 20) date from about 1600 (after the wars of religion between the Catholics and Protestants), when the new nobility needed to show off.
Place de la Liberte – This has been Sarlat’s main market square since the Middle Ages, though it was expanded in the 18th century. Sarlat’s patriotic Town Hall has a nice café that is perfectly situated for people-watching. The dark stone roofs are typical of this region: called Lauzes in French, the flat limestone rocks were originally gathered by farmers clearing their fields, then made into cheap, durable roofing material (today few people can afford them). The unusually steep pitch of the lauzes roofs – which last up to 300 years – helps distribute the weight of the roof (about 160 pounds per square foot) over a greater area. Although most lauzes roofs have been replaced by roofs made form more affordable materials, many remain. The small windows in the roof are critical: They provide air circulation, along the lichen that coat the porous stone to grow – sealing gaps between the stones and effectively waterproofing the roof. Without that layer, the stone would crumble after repeating freeze-and-thaw cycles.
Covered Market and Panoramic Elevator – Once a parish church dedicated to St. Marie, with a massive lauzes roof and a soaring bell tower, this building was converted into a gunpowder factory and then a post office before becoming today’s indoor market. Marvel at its tall, strangely modern, seven-ton doors, and imagine the effort it took to deliver and install them in the center of this tight-laned town.
Foie Gras and Beyond – Tourists-pleasing stores line the streets of Sarlat and are filled with the finest local products. The shop near the “boy” sells it all, from truffles to foie gras to walnut wine to truffle liqueur.
Place des Oies – Feathers fly when geese are traded on this “Square of the Geese” on market days. Birds have been serious business here since the Middle Ages. Even today, a typical Sarlat menu reads, “duck duck, goose.” Trophy homes surround this cute little square on all sides.
The wealthy merchant’s home – the Manoir de Gisson – with a tower built big enough to match ego – is something to check out. The owner was the town counsel, a position that arose as cities like Sarlat outgrew the Middle Ages. Town counsels replaced priests in resolving civil conflicts and performing other civic duties. Touring the interior of the manor reveals how the wealthy lived in Sarlat. You’ll climb up one of those spiral staircase towers, ogle at several rooms carefully decorated with authentic 16th-to 18th– century furniture, and peek inside the impressive lauzes roof. It’s fun to gaze out the windows and imagine living here, surrounded by 360 degrees of gorgeous cityscape.
Fourteenth-Century Vault and Fountain – For generations, this was the town’s only source of water, protected by the Virgin Mary (find her at the end of the fountain). Opposite the restaurant and fountain, find the wooden doorway that houses a massive Renaissance stairway. These showy stairways, which replaced more space-efficient spiral ones, required a big house and bigger income. Impressive.
Rue de la Republique – This “modern” thoroughfare, known as La Traverse to locals. Dates from the mid-1800s, when blasting big roads through medieval cities was standard operating procedure (it’s traffic-free in afternoons in high season). In 1963 Sarlat’s other streets became off-limits to cars, thanks to France’s forward-thinking minister of culture, Andre’ Malraux. The law that bears his name was served to preserve and restore important monuments and neighborhoods throughout France. Eager to protect the country’s architectural heritage, private investors, cities, and regions worked together to create traffic-free zones, rebuild crumbling buildings, and make sure that no cables or ugly wiring marred the ambience of towns like this. Without the Malraux Law, Sarlat might well have more “efficient” roads like Rue de la Republique slicing through its old town center.
Where we slept
La Villa des Consuls: Elegant accommodations in a historic building
La Villa des Consuls is housed in a historic building that has been thoughtfully restored to preserve its original architectural character while offering contemporary amenities. The property features:
4 beautifully appointed guest rooms. 9 self-catering apartments of varying sizes (some on two floors). Soaring beamed ceilings that showcase the building’s historic character Modern bathrooms and kitchens (in apartments). Private terraces in many units. Spectacular views over Sarlat’s medieval rooftops Air conditioning in select rooms and apartments Free WiFi throughout the property Secure parking available nearby (for a fee)
Where we ate:
Traditional Périgord Cuisine
Sarlat is a gastronomic center, particularly famous for:
- Foie Gras: The region’s signature delicacy
- Duck: In various forms – confit, magret, rillettes
- Truffles: The “black diamond” of Périgord, especially in winter
- Walnuts: Used in oils, cakes, and liqueurs
- Cèpes: Wild mushrooms featured in many local dishes
Recommended Restaurants
Le Petit Manoir: Elegant cuisine combining local ingredients with Asian influences
La Petite Tonnelle: Traditional cuisine in a charming setting
Le Bistro de l’Octroi: Classic Périgord dishes with a modern twist
Le Présidial: Refined dining in a beautiful garden setting
Au Vieux Sarlat: Authentic regional specialties
Conclusion
Sarlat-la-Canéda offers visitors an extraordinary journey through time. Its remarkable preservation allows you to experience the atmosphere of medieval and Renaissance France in an authentic setting. Beyond its architectural splendor, Sarlat serves as a gateway to the treasures of the Dordogne region, from prehistoric caves to dramatic castles and picturesque villages.
Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a gastronomy lover, or simply seeking the charm of rural France, Sarlat promises an unforgettable experience that captures the essence of the Périgord. Take your time to wander the labyrinthine streets, savor the local cuisine, and absorb the atmosphere of this remarkable town where centuries of history come alive with every step.