Dramatic, deluxe and more than a little dashing, Positano is the Amalfi Coast’s front-cover splash, with vertiginous houses tumbling down to the sea in a cascade of sun-bleached peach, pink and terracotta. No less photo-worthy are its steep streets and steps, flanked by wisteria-draped hotels, smart restaurants and fashionable retailers.
Specializing in scenery and sand, this easygoing town hangs halfway between Sorrento and Amalfi town on the most spectacular stretch of the coast. According to legend, the Greek god Poseidon created Positano for Pasitea, a nymph he lusted after. History says the town was founded when ancient Greeks at Paestum decided to move out of the swamp (to escape the malaria carried by its mosquitoes.
In antiquity, Positano was famed for its bold sailors and hearty fleet. But after a big 1343 tsunami and the pirate raids of the Middle Ages, its wealth and power declined. It flourished again as a favorite under the Bourbon royal family in the 1700s, when many of its fine mansions were built. Until the late 1800s, the only access was by donkey path or by the sea. In the 20th century, Positano became a haven for artists and writers escaping Communist Russia and Nazi Germany. In 1953, American writer John Steinbeck’s essay on the town popularized Positano among tourists, and soon after it became a trendy Riviera stop. That was when the town gave the world “Moda Positano” – a leisurely dolce vita lifestyle of walking barefoot; wearing bright, happy colorful clothes; and sporting skimpy bikinis.
Today, the village is a pleasant gathering of cafe’s and expensive stores draped over an almost comically steep hillside. Terraced gardens and historic houses cascade downhill to a stately cathedral and a broad, pebbly beach. Positano is famous for its fashions – and 90% of its shops are women’s clothing boutiques (linen is a particularly popular item).
The “skyline” looks like it did a century ago. Notice the town’s characteristic Saracen-inspired rooftop domes. Filled with sand, these provide low-tech insulation – to help buildings, in the days before central air, stay cool in summer and warm in winter. Traditionally, they were painted white in summer and black in winter.
For decades, it’s been practically impossible to get a building permit in Positano. Landowners who want to renovate can’t make external changes. Endless staircases are a way of life for the hardy locals. Only one street in Positano allows motorized traffic; the rest are narrow pedestrian lanes. While Positano has 4,000 residents, an average of 12,000 tourists visit daily from Easter through October. But because hotels don’t take large groups (bus access is too difficult), this town – unlike Sorrento – has been spared the worst ravages of big-bus tourism. In winter, hotels shut down and the town once again belongs to the locals.
Church of Santa Maria Assunta – This church, which sits upon Roman ruins, was once the abbey of Positano’s 12th-century Benedictine monastery. Originally Romanesque, it was eventually abandoned (along with the entire lower town) out of fear of pirate attacks. When the coast was clear in the 18th century, the church was given an extreme Baroque makeover.
Above the main altar is the Black Madonna, an icon-like Byzantine painting likely brought here from Constantinople by monks in the 12th century. But locals prefer a more romantic origin story for the gilded painting: Saracen pirates had it on their ship as plunder. A violent storm hit – sure to sink the evil ship. The painting of Mary spoke, saying, “Posa, posa” (lay me down), and the ship glided safely to this harbor. The pirates were so stricken they became Christians. Locals kept the painting, and the town became known as Posa-tano (recalling Mary’s command).
To the right of the altar, a small freestanding display case holds a silver-and copper bust of St. Vitus (along with bones, now holy relics). He’s the town patron, who brought Christianity here in about AD 300. In the adjacent niche (on the right) is a rare painting by Fabrizio Santafede of Baby Jesus being circumcised, considered the finest painting in town.
Back outside, we see the bell tower, dating from 1707. Above the door, it sports a Romanesque relief scavenged from the original church. The scene – a wolf mermaid with seven little fish – was a reminder to worshippers of how integral the sea was to their livelihood. Nicknamed “our pagan protector,” it’s a good example of how early Christians incorporated pagan elements into their worship.
This is the town gathering spot in the evening, as local boys hustle tourist girls into the nearby nightclub. Stepping down to the beach level, residents traded their historic baptistery font with Amalfi town for the two iron lions you see facing the beach. Around the staircase, you’ll also see some original Roman columns, scavenged from the buried villa.
Positano’s beach, called Spiaggia Grande, is half public and half private. It’s atmospherically littered with a commotion of fishing boats and recreational craft.
