After Rome fell, the town of Amalfi was one of the first to trade goods – coffee, carpets, and paper – between Europe and points east. Its heyday was the 10th and 11th centuries, when it was a powerful maritime republic – a trading power with a fleet that controlled this region and rivaled Pisa, Genoa, and Venice.
The Republic of Amalfi founded a hospital in Jerusalem and claims to have founded the Knights of Malta order – even giving them the Amalfi cross, which became the famous Maltese cross. Amalfi minted its own coins and established “rules of the sea” – the basics of which survive today.
In 1343, this little powerhouse was suddenly destroyed by a tsunami caused by an undersea earthquake. That disaster, compounded by devastating plagues, left Amalfi a humble backwater.
Much of the culture of this entire region was driven by this town – but because it fell from power, Amalfi doesn’t always get the credit it deserves. Today its 5,000 residents live off tourism. The coast’s namesake is not as picturesque as Positano or as well-connected as Sorrento, but it has a real-life feel and a vivacious bustle.
Though generally less touristy than Positano, Amalfi is still packed during the day with big-bus tours.
Amalfi’s one main street runs up from the waterfront through a deep valley, with stairways to courtyards and houses on either side. It’s worth walking uphill on the workaday upper end of town. Super-atmospheric, narrow stepped side lanes branch off, squeezing between hulking old buildings.
If you hear water under a grate in the main street, it’s the creek that runs through the ravine – a reminder that the town originally straddled the stream but later paved over it to create a main drag.
Notice the colorful tile above the Porta della Marina gateway, showing off the trading domain of the maritime Republic of Amalfi. Just to the left, along the busy road, a series of arches marks the long, narrow, vaulted halls of Amalfi’s arsenal – where ships were built in the 11th century.
Venturing into town, we quickly come to Piazza Duomo, the main square, with the cathedral – which is the town’s most important sight – and a spring water-spewing statue of St. Andrew.
Cathedral – This church is “Amalfi Romanesque” (a mix of Moorish and Byzantine flavors, built c. 1000-1300), with a fanciful Neo-Byzantine facade from the 19th century. The stairway is imposing, which functions as a mini Spanish Steps-style hangout zone and a handy outdoor theater. The 1,000-year-old bronze door at the top was given to Amalfi by a wealthy local merchant who had it made in Constantinople. Visitors are directed on a one-way circuit through the cathedral complex with four stops: the cloister, original basilica, crypt, and cathedral.
Out tour began in a courtyard with 120 graceful columns – the “Cloister of Paradise.” This was the cemetery for nobles in the 13th century (note their stone sarcophagi). There is also a fine view of the bell tower and its majolica tiles.
The original ninth-century church, known as the Basilica of the Crucifix, boasts a fine 13th-century wooden crucifix. Today the basilica is a museum filled with the cathedral’s art treasures.
The Angevin Mitre (Mitra Angioina), with a “pavement of tiny pearls” setting off its gold and gems, has been worn by bishops since the 14th century.
Also on display is a carved wooden decoration from a Saracen pirate ship that wrecked just outside of town in 1544 during a freak storm.
The church is dedicated to St. Andrew, whom believers credit with causing the storm and saving the town from certain pillage and plunder.
Crypt of St. Andrew – Just as Venice needed St. Mark to get on the pilgrimage map, Amalfi needed St. Andrew – one of the apostles who, along with his brother Peter, left their fishing nets to become the original “fishers of men.”
Under the huge bronze statue, we saw a reliquary holding what are believed to be Andrew’s remains. There were brought here from Constantinople in 1206 during the Crusades – an indication of the wealth and importance of Amalfi back then.
Cathedral – Behind the main altar is a painting of St. Andrew martyred on a X-Shaped cross flanked by two Egyptian granite columns supporting a triumphal arch.
Check out the delicate mother-of-pearl crucifix.
