So many visitors to Edinburgh, mesmerized by the Royal Mile, never venture to the New Town. and that’s a shame. With the city’s finest Georgian architecture (from its 18th-century boom period), the New Town has a completely different character than the Old Town.
We’ll start with our visit in the Princes Street Gardens.
From this side, one can enjoy fine views of medieval Edinburgh, with its 10-story-plus “skyscrapers”. It’s easy to imagine how miserably crowded that area was, prompting the expansion of the city during the Georgian period. You can easily pick out the landmarks along the Royal Mile we visited in previous days, most notably the open-work “thistle steeple” of St. Giles.
A big lake called Nor-Loch once was to the north (nor’) of the Old Town; now it’s a valley between Edinburgh’s two towns. The lake was drained around 1800 as part of the expansion. Before that, the lake was the town’s water reservoir… and its sewer. Much has been written about the town’s infamous stink. The town’s nickname, “Auld Reekie,” referred to both the smoke of its industry and the stench of its squalor.
The long-gone loch was also a handy place for drowning witches. With their thumbs tied to their ankles, they’d be lashed to dunking stools. Those who survived the ordeal were considered “aided by the devil” and burned as witches. If they died, they were innocent and given a good Christian burial. Edinburgh was Europe’s witch-burning mecca – any perceived “sign,” including a small birthmark, could condemn you. Scotland burned more witches per capita than any other country – 17,000 souls between 1479 and 1722.
The grassy park that filled the former lakebed, offers a wonderful escape from the bustle of the city. Once the private domain of the wealthy, it was opened to the public around 1870 – not as a democratic gesture, but in hopes of increasing sales at the Princes Street department stores (like Jenners across the street). It also made for a nice place to record the opening video. 🙂
Within the park is the Scott Monument. Built in the early 1840s, this elaborate Neo-Gothic monument honors the great author Sir Walter Scott, one of Edinburgh’s many illustrious sons. When Scott died in 1832, it was said that “Scotland never owed so much to one man.” Scott almost singlehandedly created the image of the Scotland we know. Just as the country was in danger of being assimilated by the English, Scott celebrated traditional songs, legends, myths, architecture, and kilts. And, as the father of the Romantic historical novel, he contributed to Western literature in general.
Nicknamed “the Gothic Rocket,” this 200-foot-tall monument shelters a marble statue of Scott and his favorite pet, Maida, a deerhound who was one of 30 canines this dog lover owned during his lifetime.
Crossing the street from the park, we see the now closed Jenners Department Store. Notice how statues of women support the building – just as real women once supported the business. The arrival of new fashions here was such a big deal in the old days that they’d announce it by flying flags on the Nelson Monument atop Calton Hill.
Moving away from Prince’s street, up one block you hit the main drag of Edinburgh’s grid-plannd New Town – George Street. Laid out in 1776, when King George III was busy putting down a revolution in a troublesome overseas colony, the New Town was a model of urban planning in its day. The architectural style is “Georgian” – British for “Neoclassical”. And the street plan came with an unambiguous message: to celebrate the union of Scotland with England into the United Kingdom. (This was particularly important, since Scotland was just two decades removed from the failed Jacobite uprising of Bonnie Prince Charlie).
If you look at a map, you’ll see the politics in the street plan: St. Andrew Square (patron saint of Scotland) and Charlotte Square (George III’s queen) bookend the New Town, with its three main streets named for the royal family of the time (George, Queen, and Princes). Thistle and Rose streets are named for the national flowers of Scotland and England.
The plan for the New Town was the masterstroke of the 23-year-old urban designer James Craig. George Street – 20 feet wider than the others (so a four-horse carriage could make a U-turn) -was the main drag. Running down the high spine of the area, if afforded grand, unobstructed views. As you stroll down George Street, you’ll notice that, with Craig’s grid, grand cross streets come with fine Old Town and river views to the left and right, and monuments seem placed to accentuate the perspectives.
About halfway down is St. Andrew’s and St. George’s church (pictured above). Designed as part of the New Town plan in the 1780s, the church is a product of the Scottish Enlightenment. It has an elliptical plan (the first in Britain) so that all can focus on the pulpit.
Of the many streets in the New Town, Thistle Street has perhaps the most vivid Scottish character. And that’s fitting, as it’s named after Scotland’s national flower. At the beginning and end of the street, one can notice that Craig’s street plan included tranquil cul-de-sacs within the larger blocks. It’s a sleepy street, with embedded business office but not much in the way of store fronts.
As a rose is to a thistle, and as England is to Scotland, so is brash, boisterous Rose Street to sedate, thoughtful Thistle Street. This stretch of Rose Street feels more commercialized, jammed with chain stores. The far end is packed with pubs and restaurants. The cobbled Tudor rose embedded in the brick sidewalk (above) tell you where you are.
Jackie and I stopped at one of the locals for a quick bit to eat and drink…
But it was across the street that really got our attention…
As we reach the end of Rose Street, we pop out onto the aptly named Castle Street. Linger for a moment over the grand views of the Edinburgh Castle. It’s almost as if they planned it this way… just for the views. 🙂
Keep New Town in mind if you’re looking for a bit better shops (think less touristy) and better restaurants. And it’s all available by a 20 minute walk or 5 minute bus ride from the Royal Mile.